When I started working in highbrow test kitchens 12 years ago, garlic powder was seen as a lifeless imitation of the fresh thing. Why use dried when fresh is so pungent, so aromatic, so flavorful ...

Garlic powder gets no respect. Sure, the aroma and taste of fresh garlic is hard to beat, but in some situations, the dried stuff doesn’t just measure up, it flat-out wins.

The dried allium in some form — garlic powder, granulated garlic and garlic salt — has been part of my palate since I was a child enjoying my mother’s recipes.

Add both types of garlic, pepper flakes, and shallots and cook until softened. Turn low add tomatoes, and cook another 4-5 minutes. Add the remaining 4T of butter and melt.