“I don’t want to smell it too strongly — a little bit can give me a headache,” Yuam Bing Liu, 36, said of durian, before chomping down on one of D.T.’s pies during her lunch break.

Durian is so smelly, 550 people evacuated a library in 6 minutes, thinking there was a gas leak. Mo Styles Food writer Richard Sterling described durian's odor as a mix of " ...