Pastry chef Carla Jones loads a trio of sweet potato pies onto a tray destined for the oven on Nov. 15 at Ol' Henry, a restaurant in Berkeley, Mo.

Bake until potatoes are very tender and can be easily squeezed with tongs, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Let potatoes sit until cool enough to handle, at least 20 minutes.