Artisanal: 2 Park Ave., (212) 725-8585. Open Monday through Thursday, 11 a. m. to midnight; Friday and Saturday, to 1 a. m. Entrees: $17-$36. 2 Stars I often fantasize about going to a fancy French… ...

Now is the time to raise a glass in support of your local wine shop, microbrewery and/or distillery, and to eat some excellent local cheese, too — here's how to do it in these strange days.

Until then, I'll be ordering that slice of cheese for an extra buck on my pastrami sandwich, but not without a little bit of guilt from here on out. Wise Sons Jewish Deli , 3150 24th St., 415-787-3354 ...